This is the first question everyone asks about Beirut and it deserves a straight answer rather than either reassurance or alarm.

Start here

Read your own government’s current travel advice before you do anything else.

The UK Foreign Office, the US State Department, the Canadian, Australian, German and French ministries all publish advisories for Lebanon, they are updated frequently, and they distinguish between regions.

They change. This page cannot tell you what the situation is on the day you read it, and any guide that claims to is lying to you. The advisories can, and they are free.

Two practical consequences:

Travel insurance is normally void in an area your government advises against all travel to. Check your policy wording specifically, not the summary. Some specialist insurers cover Lebanon; most standard policies do not.

Consular assistance is limited. Several embassies have reduced staffing in Beirut at various points and have publicly stated that their ability to help in a crisis is constrained.

What the risks actually are

Being specific is more useful than being vague.

Regional conflict. Lebanon’s southern border and the southern suburbs of Beirut have been directly affected by conflict at various points, most seriously in 2006 and again in the escalation from 2023. Airspace and the airport have closed at short notice. This is the risk that matters and it is the one that changes fastest.

Political instability. Lebanon has gone long periods without a president or a functioning government. Protests can close roads at short notice, including the airport road. Burning tyres on a motorway is a recognised form of protest here and it can strand you.

Unexploded ordnance and landmines in parts of the south and along old front lines. Not in Beirut. Stay on made ground in rural border areas and observe fenced-off sites.

Ordinary crime is low. This surprises people. Beirut has historically had a very low rate of violent crime against visitors, and street crime is less common than in most European capitals. Petty theft has increased since the economic collapse, which is unsurprising.

Road safety is the risk you are statistically most likely to meet. Lebanese driving is fast and the rules are advisory. Wear a seatbelt, avoid driving yourself, and be careful crossing roads — pedestrian crossings are decorative.

What the risks are not

You are not walking into a war zone in Beirut in ordinary conditions. Central Beirut functions: restaurants are full, people go to work, the bars in Mar Mikhael are busy on a Friday.

Sectarian violence is not directed at foreigners. Lebanon’s periodic internal clashes are between Lebanese factions in specific places.

Beirut is not dangerous for women in the way some regional capitals are. Harassment happens as it does anywhere; the general environment is comparatively relaxed and Lebanese women dress and move freely in most of the city.

Areas

Central and eastern Beirut — Hamra, Achrafieh, Gemmayzeh, Mar Mikhael, Badaro, downtown, the Corniche — are where visitors go and where this guide is about.

The southern suburbs (Dahieh) and the Palestinian refugee camps are areas most advisories specifically single out and where visitors should not go casually. The camps are not sights and treating them as such is both unsafe and offensive.

The Bekaa Valley, including Baalbek, and the south beyond Tyre have carried more restrictive advice for years. Read the current wording before planning either.

The far north, around Tripoli, has had periodic instability.

The infrastructure problem

This affects your trip more than anything else on this page.

Electricity. The state grid supplies a small number of hours a day, and has at points supplied almost none. Everything runs on private generators, sold by subscription by neighbourhood operators, and the cost is significant. Check that your accommodation has 24-hour generator backup — this is the single most important question to ask a hotel in Beirut, and any decent one will answer it clearly.

Water. Municipal supply is intermittent. Buildings have tanks. Do not drink the tap water; bottled is universal and cheap.

Fuel. Shortages have caused queues and closures at various points.

Internet. Generally functional, and dependent on the same electricity.

Medical care in the private hospitals is genuinely good — Beirut was a regional medical centre for decades — but the system has been damaged by emigration of staff and by import costs. Bring any medication you need; do not assume you can buy it here.

Banks. See how much Beirut costs. In short: bring US dollars in cash, and do not rely on cards or ATMs.

Practical rules

  • Register with your embassy if it offers a service for citizens abroad.
  • Have a plan for leaving that does not depend on the airport, and know that the land border with Syria is the only alternative and is not straightforward.
  • Keep your passport copy and cash separate.
  • Do not photograph soldiers, checkpoints, military installations, the airport road or government buildings. This is enforced.
  • Avoid demonstrations, and check whether roads are open before setting off across the city.
  • Take local advice daily. Your hotel, your driver and the people you meet know more about today than any published source. Lebanese people are extremely direct about this and will tell you if somewhere is a bad idea.
  • Have offline maps and a local SIM.

So should you go

That is your decision and it should be an informed one.

Lebanon is one of the most rewarding places in the Mediterranean to visit, the hospitality is not a cliché, and the country’s tourism industry — much of it small, family-run and battered by six years of crisis — genuinely needs visitors.

It is also a country in a prolonged emergency, next to an active regional conflict, whose situation can change in a day.

Read the advisory, check your insurance, ask people who are there now, and decide. Do not let anyone — including a travel guide — make that judgement for you.