Articles
Day-by-day itineraries, what to eat, how the city actually works, and the places within a train ride that are worth the day.

Beirut Airport to the City
Nine kilometres, one road, no train, and a set of things to arrange before you land.

Day Trips From Beirut
Seven thousand years of city, the largest Roman temples on earth, a cave system, cedar forests and a gorge full of monasteries.

Eating in Beirut
One of the great cuisines of the world, at every price point, in a country where feeding a guest is close to a moral obligation.

Getting Around Beirut
No metro, no timetable, no bus map worth the name — and a shared taxi system that works better than it sounds.

How Much Does Beirut Cost
Bring US dollars in cash. Everything else about money in Lebanon follows from that one sentence.

Is Beirut Safe? An Honest Answer
Not a reassurance and not a warning. What the actual risks are, what they are not, and what to check before you book.

The City That Keeps Being Rebuilt
Berytus, the law school, the earthquake, the silk boom, the mandate, the golden age, fifteen years of war, and then 4 August 2020.

Three Days in Beirut
Downtown and the war, the museums and the sea, and a day out to Byblos — with the reading to do first.

Where to Stay in Beirut
Four districts, and one question to ask every hotel before you book anything.
